Kaikai Buai - chewing betel nut

I'm trying to write this entry without it descending into vulgarity and scatalogical humour - I suspect I may fail miserably.

One of the great things about living in the Highlands (and it may be true throughout PNG, I don't know) is that the people here do not use the street as a public toilet! Unlike many other parts of the developing world (and I'm thinking particularly of parts of West Africa, Delhi & other Indian cities) I am not constantly confronted by the sight of someone squatting in the gutter relieving themselves in one way or another. Apart from one little lad who was caught short in the market and rushed off to do his business behind a nearby wall clutching a cabbage leaf as his toilet tissue, I have never seen anyone mess up the street.

It means that the place doesn't stink and its not unpleasant walking around town.

Whilst Hagen does well in the matter of non public defecating it is without doubt the spitting capital of the world! People spit copiously, loudly and regularly in spite of the numerous "No Spitting" signs (Tambu long spetim - in Tok Pisin). It is made much worse, and much more colourful, by the local habit of chewing Betel nuts (Kaikai Buai). Buai is chewed with "pepa" (a hot mustard stick) and "paura" (crushed coral lime) and the reaction of these ingredients does three things. Firstly it gives the individual a slight buzz (not crazy high - just a mild stimulant like very strong coffee). Secondly it causes the saliva glands to go into overdrive and produce astonishing amounts of saliva. Thirdly it turns the saliva (and the teeth & gums) bright red.   So its  chew - spit, chew - spit, chew - spit : you get the picture. The men are expert spitters and can send a well aimed, brightly coloured jet over many yards. The streets are therefore covered in large splatters of bright red spit. When first encountered it can be most alarming because it looks strikingly like blood and you have the impression of walking through a town with blood splattered everywhere! On one occasion I recall seeing a white van covered in what I first thought was blood only to realise that the driver had been chewing buai and spitting red out of the window.

Buai tastes awful. Long time chewers get badly stained teeth - first red then black. Nuts vary in potency and a strong one can cause you to sweat and want to lie down for a few minutes. The "paura" is highly caustic (its lime) and can cause ulcerated cheeks and mouth cancers. Not for me - I've got enough bad habits already.