Monday 18 October 2010

Jacob and Alphonse

The handicraft group office is in the centre of Hagen protected by an eight feet high, corrugated sheet fence topped with barbed wire with a long and ominous coil of razor wire above that just for good measure. The entrance gate, complete with security post, would stop even the most determined ram raider.

Behind this impressive barricade lies an oasis of calm, not a pretty oasis by any means but still calm and, more importantly in Hagen, its safe.

Our location immediately behind the Highlands Bakery means that we are treated to the smell of fresh bread and cakes for most of the day.  The bakery is most definitely not a neat French boulangerie or patisserie with polished glass windows and mouthwatering displays of baguettes and quiches. The shop itself hides behind a windowless facade, windows would be far too risky, inside it is dark and forbidding. The results of the days baking are sold to customers from behind the protection of a very serious steel grill. In spite of the unpromising surroundings there is always a crowd of customers outside and the bread and scones that appear are surprisingly good.

Jacob and Alphonse work at the Handicraft Group Office. Not in the office exactly since they spend their days in the compound opening and closing the security gate having first ensured they are not about to admit a gang of rascals intent on stealing all our bilums.  They are always happy to talk and we get along well with them laughing and correcting my feeble Tok Pisin as we go. Chatting is very important in PNG and they love nothing more than to stop and "Tok Stori".

Jacob has become my unofficial personal minder and security guard. I am not allowed out of the office compound onto the dangerous streets of downtown Hagen unescorted. A trip to the shops for a few groceries and Jacob is by my side, never more than a few paces away. Even inside the Best Buy supermarket he maintains a constant presence at my shoulder occasionally pointing out the special offers or  leaning over to help me pick the best onions or tomatoes! All very unusual but reassuring - he's a lovely man I enjoy his company and he's helping me get to know the streets of Hagen pointing out where to avoid and taking me on a special trip to the Police Station so that I know where to run in an emergency!

Alphonse seems to be a one man recycling unit. He can be seen regularly crushing soft drink cans under the heel of his impressively large boots and storing them away in a massive sack he keeps in the compound. He is obviously selling the results of his work and we can be sure that no Coke can will litter the streets near our compound whilst Alphonse is on patrol. Other than that he seems to spend his day opening and closing the gate.

Its rough and ready and the office defences create the impression of working in a war zone but the people are welcoming and it feels like its going to be a good place to work.

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